Satisfying the Sweet (and Savory) Tooth

Baked goods are not just for dessert anymore. New local bakeries are serving treats that can satisfy an appetite and a sweet tooth at the same time. Danna Abrams, chef and co-owner of Hometown Bake Shop in Centerport, said the secret is in the dough. “I make the same crust from scratch for both my sweet and savory pies,” she said. “The sweet pies are finished with sugar; the savory are finished with salt and pepper.”

Ms. Abrams, 38, opened Hometown Bake Shop on Pi Day (March 14, which honors the mathematical constant 3.14) this year, with only pie for sale. There were Key lime, strawberry rhubarb, banana cream and black bottom bourbon pies. There were also macaroni and cheese pies, chili and cornbread pies, chicken potpies and meatball pies. All were available in six- and 10-inch rounds. By the end of the day, she said, nearly all had sold out.

“It was a homecoming in so many ways,” said Ms. Abrams. A native of Huntington, she built a following as a pastry chef at Momofuku Milk Bar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, Kerber’s Farm in Huntington, and farmer’s markets across Long Island, where, she said, customers bought pies out of the back of her minivan before she even had time to set up her stand.

Ms. Abrams recently moved to Northport from Brooklyn with her husband and three small children, and the storefront bakery is a family project. “I know that moms are running around all the time, and I wanted Hometown to be the spot where you can get something made from scratch for your family every day,” she said.

The pie offerings have since grown to include breakfast, including a specialty egg sandwich menu with a choice of breads, like Cheddar biscuit, naan, focaccia or English muffin. Lunch and dinner options feature brisket, pulled pork and roasted chicken. In September, Ms. Abrams expects to begin serving weekend brunch at the half-dozen small tables in the cheerful cafe.